When your pool is plastered, the plaster crew will begin filling your pool at once. You will notice a rag around the hose end. This is to prevent any foreign material from getting on to your plaster and causing a stain. Please stop the water ONLY when spa is full and water in pool has reached the middle of the skimmer opening. Please let us know when this occurs so that we may schedule our 'start up' crew to your pool. What we do at Start-Up.....
When we leave, we will leave equipment running on a 24 hour basis for a day or two and then return to check entire system out to make sure all is functioning properly. We will also set system to run automatically. We will then schedule a 'Pool School' with you to insure you understand the basic operation of your equipment. What You Should Do After We Leave..... Twice A Week
Once A Week
Monthly
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Frequently Asked Questions
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| How many gallons do I have? | Why Chlorine? | |||||||||||||
| Why test my water? | Alkalinity? | |||||||||||||
| What do I test for? | How often should I test my water? | |||||||||||||
| What is P.H.? | Should I use a Log Book for my tests? | |||||||||||||
| What is Total hardness? | ||||||||||||||
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Chemical Solutions Information
Why balanced
water is important:
Balanced water is held safely between two harmful extremes. If water falls out
of balance on the low side, it becomes corrosive, attacking pool surfaces and
equipment. If it should rise out of balance on the high side, scale buildup can
occur leaving unsightly deposits. Out of balance water can also cause skin and
eye irritation, staining, cloudy water and will interfere with the sanitizer's
effectiveness.
Water Balance Factors
Chlorine
Chlorine was discovered in 1774. It is commonly used to safeguard tap water, and
has undergone more testing over a greater period of time than any other
sanitizer currently used in swimming pools. Although other alternatives are
available, chlorine remains the most effective, economical, and widely used pool
sanitizer. This is because chlorine is an algaecide, a bactericide and an
oxidizer... all in one.
1.
Chlorine kills algae.
2. Chlorine kills bacteria and other disease causing organisms
3. Chlorine removes organic debris and swimmer wastes through the process of
oxidation.
ADDING STABILIZED CHLORINES
Manual Method
Hand feeding - granular dichlor can be pre-dissolved in a plastic bucket of
water, then added to the deep end of the pool or in front of an inlet.
Semi-Automatic Method
Skimmer feeding - Chlorinated tablets or sticks are placed in the skimmer or
floating device to dispense chlorine for several days.
Automatic Methods
Constant rate feeders - Chlorinated sticks or tablets are used in a cartridge
type feeder to provide the most convenient, reliable and economical way to
chlorinate both in-ground and above ground pools. These feeders help maintain
proper chlorine levels... even when you are away on vacation.
Shocking your Pool
This is adding a basic chlorine at a
rate higher than normal in order to kill any resistant bacteria. Normally
add one pound per 10,000 gals. once a week during summer or after heavy rains.
Everyone wants to enjoy a clean, clear pool. At time, perspiration, suntan oils, and other contaminants will eventually accumulate in your pool. These contaminants will reduce the effectiveness of the chlorine. Other signs of this contamination (referred to as "Combined Chlorine") are strong odors, eye burn, skin irritation and dull or cloudy water. This condition may arise after a week or two of normal use, or immediately after severe circumstances such as unusually large number of swimmers, heavy rains, or heat waves. To eliminate the contaminants and revitalize the chlorine, a process known as "Shock Treatment" (sometimes referred to as "Superchlorination") is required.
pH
pH is the most important factor in water balance. When the pool's pH is out of
range, water balance problems may occur as mentioned above. The pH range is used
to measure the relative acid or base of the water. The range is between 0 to 14,
with a pH of 7 being neutral. Readings between 7.4 and 7.6 are considered
acceptable for swimming pool water.
pH Minus - Dry acid (sodium bisulfate) – decreases pH. A granular product for slowly lowering the pH of pool water. Safer to handle and store than liquid acid.
Total Alkalinity
Total Alkalinity (range 80-150 ppm) is a measure of the alkaline materials
dissolved in the water. The water's ability to resist pH changes depends on the
amount of this alkaline material in the water. If the total alkalinity is low,
the result is "pH bounce", meaning that the pH will tend to "bounce" in and out
of range. If total alkalinity is too high, it becomes very difficult to adjust
the pH as needed.
Alkalinity Plus -
100% sodium hydrogen carbonate
– increases total alkalinity. A safe and easy to use granular product that
raises total alkalinity in pool water and acts as a buffer to prevent pH bounce,
staining and corrosion.
Calcium Hardness
Calcium Hardness (range 175-275 ppm) refers to the amount of dissolved materials
(mostly calcium carbonate) in water. A low Calcium Hardness can lead to
corrosion of equipment or the etching of a plaster finish. A Calcium Hardness
level that is too high causes cloudy water and scaling.
Pool Stabilizer - 100% cyanuric acid – chlorine stabilizer. It prolongs the effective life of chlorine by reducing loss caused by the sun. Sometimes referred to as a conditioner. 1 lb. per 4,000 gallons of water will provide an initial stabilizer level of 30ppm. Stabilizer pre-conditions your pool water to make chlorine last longer. Use at the beginning of each season to protect chlorine from the sun’s damaging effects and increase its effectiveness.
Why
Stabilizer is Important
Without stabilizer, the sun's rays would quickly destroy the chlorine in your
pool. Stabilizer acts as a "sun shield" to make the chlorine last longer... up
to 3 1/2 times longer! Your dealer will tell you how much stabilizer to add to
your newly opened pool. You should start by raising the minimum level to 40
parts per million (ppm). Afterwards, simply use stabilized chlorine to maintain
the proper stabilizer levels.
Adding
Stabilizer
When you first bring your water sample to your dealer, he will recommend adding
the proper amount of pool stabilizer. With the pump running, add the stabilizer
very slowly through the skimmer. Keep the circulation system running for at
least 48 hours. Do not backwash the filter for two days after adding pool
stabilizer.
Calcium Increaser - Calcium chloride – increases calcium hardness. A convenient and safe granular product for raising calcium hardness of pool water to aid in prevention of corrosion, etched plaster and other problems resulting from low calcium hardness.
Algae Wind, rain, and leaves introduce microscopic algae spores into your pool. When this plant life is allowed to multiply, it consumes chlorine and causes an unsightly, sometimes slippery condition that can be difficult and expensive to eliminate. The best way to control algae is through prevention.
Is
there a fast way to remove algae once it's dead?
Yes, use a product to "floc" the pool, settling any dead algae to the pool
bottom for easy vacuum removal.
How
can I help prevent algae from occurring?
Keep free chlorine levels between 1.0 3.0 ppm and begin an algaecide
maintenance program using an algaecide.
Green &
Brown Algae
This type appears as brown spots or green slime or moss that clings to pool
surfaces. May also be free-floating giving a green appearance to the water. Use
a double dosage of a shock treatment, then add an algaecide as directed. Brush
and recirculate.
Mustard Algae
Mustard algae appears as loose flakes on pool surfaces. Color may vary from
yellow to green. It is easily brushed off, but returns to surfaces within hours.
It is also resistant to chlorine. Use an algaecide as directed. Brush and
recirculate.
Black Algae
Black algae develops as black patches on pool surfaces. It can be scraped with
your fingernail, and has a dark green appearance if smeared. You can remove
black algae with vigorous daily brushing and a double dosage of a shock
treatment. A granular algae remover may be used as a spot treatment in plaster
pools only.
Red
Algae
Red Algae is actually a bacteria... not an algae. It shows up on pool surfaces
as loose, rust colored specks or clinging, bright pink patches. Use a soluble
dosage of a shock treatment.
Mold, Pollen and Mildew Spores
These form as a wispy sand colored silt and return to a fine powder that makes
the pool green and cloudy. They easily pass through sand or cartridge filters.
Use a double dosage of a shock treatment, then use a chemical to flock (drop)
the particles to the bottom of the pool to vacuum out.
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